(Below): Embroidered hat and dress panel, I7th century
|
The collections of textiles and costume date from c. 1600 to the present
day. They include some very fine examples of seventeenth-century embroidery
and eighteenth-century embroidered waistcoats as well as a variety of
nineteenth-century women's and children's wear.
The museum has more recently acquired the Irene Barnes Collection of
women's beaded and sequinned evening wear, c. 1919-1939, which includes
costume accessories of the period as well as provincial, court and wedding
attire. The emphasis is on the glamorous evening wear which epitomises the
high fashion styles of the jazz Age. This particular vogue was influenced by
Parisian designers, especially 'Coco' Chanel, one of the outstanding talents of
the 1920s who introduced the new straight tubular look. Although cut in
simple shapes, these dresses were extravagantly decorated with embroidery,
beads and sequins; this surface decoration being influenced by Leon Bakst's
Arabian designs for Diaghilev's Ballet Russes who performed in Paris in 1909.
(Below): Tambour beaded dresses, Paris label, mid-1920s.
The introduction of Tambour 'beading'
into the Paris fashion houses in the early
1920s enabled the beads and sequins to he
applied much faster than was possible by
hand. This led to a marked increase in
lavishly decorated evening wear, In
addition, trade embroidery machines were
becoming available. The versatile Cornely
machine produced chain stitch, cording and
ribbon work, the Irish '107' produced an
even satin stitch with variation in length
and the Schiffli multi-needled machine was
able to simulate lace and embroidery.
Examples of all these types of embroidery
and beading are represented in the
collection.
|